Perfume Story: administer: March 2010 Archives

administer: March 2010 Archives

Traveling around the world to research about perfumes, we can meet great people. One of these people which I met in São Paulo - Brazil, is Renata Ashcar.
She is a perfume culture researcher.
Brazil, one of countries that compound BRIC's, nowadays has been expected like a country to pull up the world economy. Its growth has increased the middle class population, that means, thanks to the stabilization on the economy and a balanced growth, one of serious subjects in Brazil, the poverty population rate was reduced.

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PS: 2009 July data. In parentheses the % oscillation compared 5yrs ago. ∆ means minus. (Fundação Getulio Vargas archive)

It's obvious, Brazil's cosmetics market has also grown and Brazil today ranks third in global cosmetics consumption.

07's Personal hygiene, perfume and cosmetics global market (US$ Billion and %)
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General growth of cosmetic and perfume market like above, of course, it means there is some important factor or people on background to sustain this growth.
One of these people is Renata Ashcar, who published the results of her researches about the culture of perfume. She published in 2001 the book : THE CULTURE OF PERFUME.
The book is written from the following 7 chapters:
1.    Perfume in ancient time
2.    Perfume in Europe
3.    The anatomy of a perfume
4.    A perfume named Brazil
5.    Perfume in Brazil
6.    Perfume in the 20th century
7.    The future perfume
As you can see from the title, the book presents the cradle of the perfume and details of historical tendencies that transformed the perfumery in something so loved for all people around the world, and also shows the singularities and particularities of Brazil into this culture.
Specially  great point of this work is that the book figures out, even a futuristic overview, all expects on Brazil  and its potential of perfume that is still hidden and not yet known to the world. To know what really is this and to look for the answer of these questions, this book should be essential-read for all people interested about perfume culture.


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"Perfume bottle has to inspire and enforce the scent of perfume." This is the principle for designing perfume bottle since René Lalique launched his first miniature bottle in 19th century. Therefore, perfume bottle refers to the beauty and represents timeless fineness. The design has charmed and tempted many people.
Consequently, bottle thief, whose target is perfume bottle, appeared and they are in the news. Recently in restaurant, a French lady talks that her bottle collection were theft. Bottle tempts people more even after it becomes empty. It might be a part of the nature of the world that there are people who keep flowers or bottles and people who pick them.
When Lalique was active, glass bottle production were mainly by craft man but automatic production just have started.
Nowadays we obtain fully automatic production line with Individual Section machine, so called IS machine. Thanks to our efforts for technology development, we supply around one hundred million of various typed miniature bottles in annual enjoying the high capability of the machine and deliver tens of millions of bottles for one of those.
Our technology fields are broad, which is from special mold design and components to control of melting glass. Not only for artistic perfume bottle, but also for nail polish and for small pressed jar, the world of miniature bottle is spreading. Even though the bottle is small, the quality requirement is very high and pursuing glass transparency, surface treatment and shape is unlimited. We KOA are active in perfume bottle market, centering miniature bottle production.
We live in world of beauty and dignity.


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photo_100302_01.jpgA heart-broken English lady was on the train, which just left the town of Calais in northern France.
She has been creating a sensation with her "mysterious disappearance" due to a temporary amnesia state of mind, caused by the stresses from her husband's infidelity and loss of her mother in the previous year. She was a woman of scandals who was just divorced with that husband, a few months ago. She was in fact Ms. Agatha Christie, a very popular crime fiction novelist at that time. She was on a trip to heal her heart,-on a trip to leave the issues of the past behind- just changing the destination from the resort of Bermuda islands to Baghdad. "This was my long-time dream to travel on this train", she said. Simplon Orient Express was increasing the speed to take her, long distance first destination of Istanbul.
It was a very long trip from Calais, Milano, Belgrade to Istanbu1. Here you'd travel across the Bosporus, then change the train to Damascus through Haidar Pasha and Aleppo, after running across the desert by bus, finally arrive in Baghdad. Friendly chats she'd had with other passengers, the scenes she has never seen before, the beautiful landscapes and just this attractive train itself, all must have been comforting her on this trip.
After this trip, those experiences she had, were written beautifully like scattered jewels in her novels. Since then she has been a passenger of this train every time she met someone of a destiny.
There she dramatically met and married to the up-and-coming 27 years-old archeologist Max Mallowan, who was younger than Christie and involved with the excavation at the site of Ur, at some distance from Baghdad.
The new chapter of her life as a mystery novelist started there, and she was contented and enthusiastically published many great books including the "The Murder on Orient Express" during 1930's.

photo_100302_02.jpgThe Orient Express around that time was 'deluxe'. The interiors were decorated in the 'Art Nouveau' or 'Art Deco' style, and there were many luxurious offerings that would make your trip ritzy and comfortable. Because the rich celebrities of various fields and countries were regulars on the passengers list, it created the legend of "running exclusive society".
The Orient Express was started by Georges Nagelmackers, a young Belgian banker who was inspired by the transcontinental railway he saw when he stayed in the U.S. He improved the trains further and started "International Sleeping-Car Company (Wagons-Lit)".
After that, it enjoyed its heyday around 1930's, the Orient Express expanded to the main four routes.
The glass art master René Lalique who was breaking new grounds in the field of architectural art from the decorative art at that time, was commissioned to design the de luxe salon-car "Côte d'Azur Pullman Express 4158 type". Together with the other beautiful interiors, his glass panel of a revelry celebrating Bacchus with the background pattern of scattered bunches of grapes was splendidly displaying young men and women enjoying the music and dancing. His glass works reflected and projected the room lights and sun light from outside and created ever-changing colorful atmosphere.
This train would later be led to a strange destiny.

After a short trip from the historical town of Odawara by the local train, there is Hakone Yumoto on the outskirts of Mt Fuji. From Hakone Yumoto, with the mountain railway repeating a few switchbacks and threading through the mountain hills, it would take you to Gora Spa. Gora is a historical resort area for royals and nobles, too. Further taking a little bus trip to the central area of Sengokuhara, you would reach to the "Lalique Museum, Hakone". Together with the residence of Prince Asaka Yasuhiko in Mejiro (the current Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum), this is one of the destinations of Lalique's journey. There, many of his jewelries, his first perfume bottle featured a cyclamen, the dragonfly mascot for the famous Bugatti and those architectural interior ornaments would talk to you in the words of his era. And the Côte d'Azur Orient Express, after running so many ages, has climbed up to the far end of the orient through Otome Toge, ending up this place. Now it sits with the other Lalique works silently like a guardian of time. The glass panel of the young men and women in "Figurines and grapes" decorating the train interior are still ceaselessly celebrating the revelry of Bacchus with the passions of Lalique and his age there.
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Climbing up the gently curved slopes in the exclusive residential area, Malabar Hill in Mumbai, there are a series of elegant houses. It is located in south Mumbai, going to north along the Marine Drive (Queens Necklace) through the India Gate. During the colonial days of England, this was almost English-only suburb, and it is still a well-heeled area.
I visited an Indian lady who lived in one of those exclusive apartments. Pressing the doorbel1, a maid in the traditional costume sari appeared and showed me the way in. Inside the room, the first thing you'd notice is a harmony. The table, sofa, cushions and pictures are all color-coordinated in blue and green. A Buddha statue is by the window.
The lady of this place has started her make-up when she became 18. Nowadays she uses imported make-up products, but is not really interested in the famous brands and their packages. What is the important point in them to her, is that they have to be allergy-free. She uses products she feels natural and gentle to her skin.
photo_100302_03.jpgIn the morning, she washes her face with a warming face-wash, takes a shower, puts one of the two moisturizers depending on the condition of the day, then applies some sunscreen. If she has a party or lunch during the day, she puts some face powder and a lipstick. No eyeliners. Her perfume has not changed for 20 years. At night, she uses some moisture-cream. She usually purchases her cosmetics of import brands when she travels overseas. She feels that her daily life is the best now. Before she goes for a walk in the morning, she stands in front of her mirror, asks herself in the mirror, and controls her feeling, by telling herself that it will be a nice day again. She has learned to control her emotions through her walk and meditation.
She goes for a walk around the hilly area where five Dakhma: the Parsi Zoroastrianism' s Tower of Silence are scattered. The oldest tower was built in 1673. She walks in the nearby park for about an hour. After her walk, she does her meditation. She has started it in 1987. It is an exercise of retaining calm mental status. As a result, she has achieved the point that she accepts even more wrinkles as natural sign for aging, and they are showing her happiness.
Because of the meditation, she now can control the problems she faces everyday. She can calmly choose to go through some way, confronting with others.
This is in a way separating yourself from the world and not thinking about things you do not need to think. The idea is that yesterday has gone, tomorrow is still yet to come, so treasure your precious today. This is the key to live happily.
She has intentionally a small mirror in her powder room. The mirror on the washbasin is small, too. Actually she used to have bigger mirrors, but changed to the current mirrors 7 years ago. She feels calmer looking to a smaller mirror, She thinks the size of a mirror reflects the size of one's ego. A person's inner self is proven with the size of one's mirror. She feels that a smaller mirror is better for her. She believes that getting a larger minor means that you are letting your egos become larger.
She controls her body through walking and meditation, and checks her facial expressions that exercise brings to her, on a smaller mirror that reflects her egos.
She says, that is the checkpoint of happiness, and 99% of the time she spends her day smiling. She gave a very nice smile.
There is a wonderful lady living in Mumbai, India.
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This page is an archive of recent entries written by administer in March 2010.

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